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Working With Soy Wax...

1) Flashpoint of Soy Wax - 450* - This means that the soy will flash a fire at this temp. Never leave wax unattended while melting.

2) Soy wax meltpoint is 127* for container soy and 137* for votive soy wax.

3) Use Container Blend Soy Wax in candle-safe containers only. It is made to stick to the walls of the container and will not release from a mold.

4) Melting Soy Wax: You can melt soy wax in the microwave or on a stove using the double-boiler method. If you use the microwave, place desired amount of soy wax in a large glass Pyrex cup. Melt on medium temp. in short intervals. It's a good idea to melt it 1 minute at a time. The time it takes will depend on your microwave and the amount of wax you're melting.

5) Best results are achieved when wax is heated to 170* - 175*.

6) Add fragrance and dye and pour when wax has cooled to 155* - 165*. Since soy wax has a larger molecular structure than paraffin, it is necessary to use more fragrance for a great scent throw. We recommend using 1.5 oz. per lb. of wax. 2 oz. is ok if you want your candle even stronger. Some fragrances may bleed if you use 2 oz., so it may be necessary to add 1 tsp. of vybar to your wax if you choose to use the extra fragrance.

7) You should try pouring at 110* (or at 100* if using container blend). The wax will be very slushy and grainy at this low temp. (Votive wax can be poured at 125 – 135*)8) After you've poured your candle, cover it with a box. Letting your soy candle cool slowly is key to a nicely finished top. Be sure it is cooling in a space that's not too cold (like the garage or basement).

9) Allow your candle to cure for at least 4 days before burning. You may not experience the full scent throw if you burn your candle too soon.

10) If you are not satisfied with the results of this candle, try pouring in 5* hotter increments until you obtain the results that work for you. You can usually cut the soy wax out of the container, remelt and pour again.

CHARACTERISTICS OF SOY
Soy wax is characterized by frosting on the outside. This is caused by trapped air bubbles as the soy crystallizes. Many people like this look, but if you are trying to reduce it, try the following: Heat your container/mold before pouring. Also, a slow cool time can help this. Sometimes humidity can reduce frost marks.

Wet spots on the glass are another common problem with soy wax. This is look is caused by the soy wax pulling away from the jar. Try adding a Tbs. of Crisco or other vegetable oil to your wax before pouring. Also, try zapping the outside of the glass with a heat gun immediately after pouring. Just a minute or so all the way around the jar can help.

NOTE: A heat gun is a candlemaker's friend. They are usually called Paint Strippers and can be found
In the paint dept. of Wal-Mart, Home Depot, or any hardware store.

Rough tops are another common problem with soy wax. If your tops are not as smooth as you'd like, just zap them with the heat gun.

This information is basic and will help you with your soy candlemaking. For more answers to soy, be sure to join our SOY CHAT at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MoonGlowSoy/ You will find lots of friends here who will help with your candlemaking questions!

Happy Soying!!


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